The Matt Bromley Interview

After Matt Bromley dropped his full length movie, Over the Edge, earlier this year (which was absolutely fantastic BTW) - we promptly contacted the man for an interview. Matt is classically humble, deeply introspective and has know qualms about sending it. So enjoy an interview with one of the world's best big wave surfers who hails from Cape Town, South Africa. Cover Image: Marco Arellano

1.) Let’s start from the beginning; full name, age and where are you from?

My name is Matt Bromley, I’m 30 years old and I’m from Kommetjie, Cape Town.

2.) When did you start surfing and what inspired you to begin surfing bigger waves?

I started surfing when I was 6 years old, my dad would take me to a beach called Muizenberg, that has the perfect waves to learn to surf on, but the lights kinda went on when I moved to Kommetjie when I was 12. It was then that all the waterpolo, rugby and swimming took a backseat and all I wanted to do was surf, surf, surf every day.

My dad was into surfing bigger waves, and he would take me to some of the outer reefs in and around Cape Town. I was supposed to just watch him from the channel, but then I’d often just paddle into the lineup and catch a wave. My first real leap of faith was surfing Dungeons when I was 17 years old. I went out to Dungeons - and I was completely unprepared. I thought that because I was a contest surfer I would be competent. But I ended having a near drowning experience instead! I was on my way to the channel, tail between my legs reckoning big wave surfing isn’t for me and then another big wave set hit the horizon. And because I had paddled wide, I was in the perfect spot for this bomb of a wave. I just sent it! And had the ride of my life. That one ride is what inspired me to start focusing on big waves.

3.) Who/what surfers has been an inspirational figure in your life?

Definitely my dad. He was the one who always took me out. It’s so inspiring for me to watch him surf. He still surfs Sunset at 66 years old and he surfed Dungeons for the first time at 60. He’s and absolute inspiration. Another guy who I looked up to was Glen B, he was one of the dudes who was towing into Sunset in the early days. And then of course, I’m inspired by guys like Kai Lenny, Shane Dorian - I try to analyse what these guys are doing, especially at Jaws. I wanna know where they sit, what boards they’re riding and what waves they pick.

4.) We know you are a Christian - what does it mean to be a Christian surfer?

I believe that I have been given this gift to surf these really big waves. That doesn’t mean I’m not scared - in fact I get really scared, I feel super nervous, I doubt myself, but when the day arrives, I feel like God gives me this incredible peace. As I step out into the chaos of these 50 - 60ft waves, God meets me with this deep sense of peace and purpose, that this is exactly where I’m supposed to be. We can live life under our control - but big wave surfing allows a step out in faith - to draw near to my Creator and feel the incredible awe-inspiring power as God is behind those huge waves.

5.) Tell us a little bit about your new movie ‘Over the Edge’. How did the idea to make a full-length film come about?

It’s been in the making for three years! Monster Energy hit me up and asked what project I’d like to do - and I said I’d like to make a short movie with Australian filmmaker, Andrew Kaineder. So we put together a budget, a plan and we started shooting. The story started to develop and it went so well that we thought, this is actually a once in a lifetime opportunity to make a full-length 58 minute film. 

Over the Edge is all about taking myself to the top of really big waves - and that moment, where you’re looking over the edge and you’re scared to death; the water’s drawing off the reef, the winds howling up the wave face and it’s where ultimate fear meets preparation. The underlying message is that everyone has their big waves to ride on life - and it’s always scary, but when we engage, and we push ourselves over the edge of that challenge, that’s when we have our best moments.

6.) What places did you visit shooting for your movie? And what was your favourite place to visit?

We visited some great spots, we went to Nias, Indonesia which is probably my favourite wave in the whole world! I feel so comfortable there, I love the people and I know the lineups really well. And we ended up scoring the biggest swell ever recorded at Nias. I had some of the waves of my life. We went to Ireland, scored a big swell at Mullaghmore. We hit Mavericks twice. Surfed Jaws the one day and flew over to Mavericks and caught the same swell. The hero session was definitely Jaws. We got some HUUUGE waves at Jaws. That was the pinnacle of my surfing career at Jaws right there. 

7.) Talk us through the emotions before that second session at Jaws. You mentioned in the movie that your wife sent you a picture of the scan of your grom that was on the way. What was it like seeing your new grom and then having to face life threatening surf a couple hours later?

I was sleeping in my little tent above Jaws - I had just travelled across the world in the middle of COVID arrived the night before the swell. I could hear the waves thundering through the night and couldn’t sleep. I was jet lagged and then at 5 in the morning I phoned my wife and she sent this scan of a tiny pea sized bean pulsing away and it was our little baby boy. I burst into tears. I’ve never felt so vulnerable. The last thing I wanted to do was go surf big waves. But then I whipped out my Bible, had a quiet time and God just made me realise I was here for a purpose. I was running on fumes - but God helped me rise up and have one of the sessions of my life, catching the biggest waves of the day.

8.) What was the longest hold down you’ve ever experienced?

Longest hold down… It was at Mavericks. I paddled into a big steep wave right next to the bowl at Mavericks, my board was a bit long and I basically caught a rail, kind of nose dived and skidded down the face on my back. The wave took me up and over-the-falls and it slammed me and pushed me sooo sooo sooo deep. I just remember it being dark and freezing cold down there. I pulled my vest and just didn’t move! I think I was under for about 25 - 30 seconds. It was pretty wild.

9.) What advice would you give to upcoming groms that are frothing to start surfing bigger waves?

Be intentional about it. Think about it. Visualise. Get your equipment right. A lot of young guys surf small waves - then when a big swell hits they’re running around trying to get their equipment together. But if you really wanna thrive in big waves, you need to have a sense of ownership and purpose with the swell and wave you’re surfing.

10.) Parting thoughts. What are your plans for the future. Any more movies or video projects on the horizon?

Just so pumped and excited to be invited to the Jaws event and the Eddie. In one sense I’m so pumped to hit big waves but on the other hand its difficult to leave my wife and child. There’s a lot happening with COVID in the mix, but I’m just praying that I’ll be able to get Hawaii for the event.

In parting I would just like to encourage people that nobody is bulletproof, everyone feels fear and doubts themselves, everyone feels unworthy, but don’t let fear hold you back. Don’t try avoid situations that make you feel vulnerable. It’s those situations where we see the greatest breakthrough.